How the people of Sichuan learned to thrive in mold

By Karen Ko

Shu refers to the modern Sichuan region, a basin shape land known for its humid climate. The geography traps moisture, and frequent rainfall keeps the humidity high. Moisture is considered a cold, "yin" evil in Chinese thought, which hinders the flow of Qi (energy) in the body, especially affecting the spleen and stomach. “Huangdi Neijing (The Yellow Emperor's Inner Canon)” notes that many illnesses stem from moisture. Despite the humidity, Sichuan is known for its centenarians and beautiful women, indicating the people of Shu have developed effective methods for managing dampness. Let’s look at some of these traditional practices.

1. Using Spices to Expel Cold from the Body

According to “Huayang Guozhi”, Sichuan people favored “pungent flavors” like ginger and green onion long before chili peppers arrived in the late Ming Dynasty. Common spices include:

   - Sichuan Pepper: Used in rituals and cooking, dating back to ancient times.

   - Ginger: Its healing effects were noted by Shennong, and Confucius ate it with every meal.

   - Evodia/Wuzhuyu: Before chili peppers, this was a go-to spice in Shu cooking, known for its warming effect.

Cooking stand designed to go over fire.

Even today, Sichuanese people love to eat hot pot, known for its numbing and spicy flavors. This spicy dish helps them sweat, which is thought to aid in removing internal dampness. A 3,000-year-old "ceramic tripod cooking vessel" discovered in Sichuan resembles a hot pot, with an outer layer for holding water and a base for lighting a fire. Because of its resemblance, many jokingly call Sichuan’s love for hot pot an "ancestral tradition."